Day 18 – Pieces of Pisa

A gutsy little Volkswagen Golf, a GPS system and the Tuscan country side offered me enormous delights (including a lovely Michelin rated meal for the paltry price of 32 Euro) but it didn’t offer up much in chocolate, but then it was never meant to.  It was meant to sate the soul not the taste buds (although I did discover a new taste delight which surprising for my enthusiasm comes in biscuit form, a tuscan biscuit called Cantuccini and full of orange peel, walnuts and deliciousness).

But having dropped off the hire car with no Italian driving mishaps, it was back on the train to Pisa.  Most people I know who have visited Pisa reported the city with not much to offer.  Most of course go for the Tower and a lot, as with myself, go for the international airport (although I most definitely had ulterior motive revolving around my pursuit of the ‘dark stuff’) but I do have to say I discovered poor Pisa to have been unfairly judged; in my humble estimation and find it a rather lovely city.

As for my chocolate motives, these revolve largely around my beloved Amedei whose factory is located just outside of Pisa and I understood they had a store in Pisa.  I hadn’t often seen Amedei on sale in Italy but when I did I avoided buying as surely in Pisa it would madly abundant; almost flowing down the river, sprouting from cracks in the walls like weeds, being given away (oh, how I wish!).   But I should have remembered the tales my friend Heidi regaled me with when a year or so ago I commandeered her Pisa trip with very clear instructions of what chocolate she had to buy me.  But more on that later.

But Pisa has other delights too, including chocolatier Paul de Bondt, esteemed and experimental and who delivers interesting and generally successful flavour combinations.

So armed with a ticket to the Tower and some addresses of chocolate stores I was ready for Pisa.  Sadly the free wi-fi in my hotel was free; just it didn’t work, so my ability to finish my last minute research was a little flawed.  And the addresses I had planned to research further, well the hotel staff looked on helpfully but rather blankly as to where these places might be.  But never fear, I love to walk, I’m in a beautiful city, there is autumnal sunshine – surely I will stumble across these famed and expected stores. 

And wandering around Pisa was indeed lovely; I stumbled across markets blooming with artichokes, zucchini flowers and porcini.  I found high street fashion and up market brands.  I smelt the temptation of freshly cooked waffles, salted foccaccia and roasted chestnuts.  I popped into bars aglow with works of sweet art and strong coffee.  But alas no chocolate was found – Pisa was devoid of chocolate (the odd offering from Lindt do not count as chocolate in my pursuits).  Where was Amedei?  Where was Paul de Bondt?  Where were the other wonders of Italian cocoa?

I spent a few hours this way, but with each minute my confidence in my plan to just stumble across my treasures faded and it was time to reassess my plans (over a little bit of that amazing salted foccaccia).  It was time to ask for help!

So back to the hotel, where after a change of room the wi-fi was now working (at least for the moment) and Plan B; a Skype call to Amedei where I spouted my much practiced phrase ‘non parlos bene Italiano, parles Inglese?’ asking if they spoke English with a tone that implied no expectation as I traverse their country, but with an implicit anglophile expectation that of course they would.  But of course they didn’t.  So after an awkward moment on the phone, I used another well practiced phrase and thanked them, splattered out something in English which was pointless as it wouldn’t be understood and turned my attention to Plan C.

Plan C was the nice German guy at the hotel reception desk.  Passing him a post-it note with Amedei’s number and utilising my best pleading look I asked (begged) him to ring for me.  He awkwardly, but pleasantly agreed to and of course his Italian is much better than mine.  I am not sure where I got the idea that they had a store in Pisa, maybe from hope, but they don’t.  But they do retail at two places in Pisa (although I would say only one as one as the other didn’t seem to have a shred of Amedei in it).  Now this I should have remembered.  Because if you recall my friend Heidi and her Italian travels, I had asked her to bring me back some good chocolate and suggested Amedei to which I provided her an address (the same place I ended up buying from).  And I should have remembered the tales she recounted to me, possibly to make me fully appreciate the extent of what she achieved in the name of friendship, about how she had to run all around Pisa trying to find my blasted chocolate, in summer heat no less, and most places didn’t stock it and in essence it was all a bit of a trial.  The naivety of my idea just to wander about until I stumble upon chocolate treasures seems even more foolish when I am forearmed with pertinent information!

But find Amedei chocolate I did.  But would you believe it, I was disappointed (damn expectation, it does cruel things to a person’s mind!).  It isn’t quite the manna from heaven experience I had spent months working up to.  But I get to buy things I haven’t seen before, including a box of chocolates I am keeping ALL to myself, a bar of gianduja, a rather nice little block of hazelnut chocolate and the piece de’ resistance a jar of Amedei chocolate and hazelnut spread – think Nutella, but much much better.  And so it should be, a jar of  180g cost 8,80 Euro.  But that is nothing in the name of my ‘art’.  So a large bag full later I leave the enoteca and head off to find Paul de Bondt.

The experience at Paul de Bondt was very different.  Amedei was purchased from an enoteca (and food providore) and whilst the staff didn’t speak English we did speak the same language of chocolate and somehow the transaction ran smoothly.  Another customer, who spoke a little English, even asked to rifle through my bag to see what I had purchased and proceeded to tell me what she liked.  Sounds a little intrusive but it was actually a lovely shared experience.

Paul de Bondt, same issue with language which is fine and to be expected, but maybe it was the presence of so many tourists that made it different but something was not quite right about the experience.  Or maybe it was the vast choice to be made in terms of chocolate flavour.  Or maybe it was the knowledge of how much money I was about to spend.  I’m not sure, but it wasn’t the cosy, intimate experience I would have liked.  But I did get chocolate and it is good.  I started off trying to pick individual chocolates to go into a box for someone with whom I will be staying with.  Somehow we managed to communicate about flavours but the whole logistics around the box was thwarted; in that I wanted a box, she told me one would hold around 200g, but then it was in a bag, then a box, then the box would hold much less than what I ordered, so I asked for the bigger box which I could see there, but I couldn’t have that, but it was there, but I couldn’t have it – and it all just got a little too hard, so a small box it was and a few extras in a bag for me!  They weren’t at all rude, there was just something not working on the communication level.

But more importantly my purchases also included some chocolate covered candied orange and lemon which I had grand ideas about taking home and mixing in a bowl together – however both are gone, eaten a day later.  There was some chocolate covered hazelnuts as presents.  A block of 71% Porcelana (as in the same type of rare Porcelena bean Amedei uses) along with another single origin.  And then some blocks in the flavours such as lemon & bergamot, fennel, star anise and Moroccan mint.  So far the lemon and bergamont was pleasant but too floral in flavour for me but the fennel fantastic.  His flavours are subtle, still allowing the chocolate in which they are infused speak and the texture is very good.  However the individual chocolates are exceptional.  The dark chocolate truffle tastes of good quality cream.  The orange truffle bursts with flavour.  The texture is fantastic!  I did spend a lot, but at least not quite in the three figure variety this time (although if you add the Amedei together well and truly over that).

So chocolate purchases are dropped off at the hotel and up the Tower I climb.  The Leaning Tower of Pisa really is rather beautiful, even with all the tourists.  An image so easily identifiable that I wasn’t quite prepared for it, and the surrounding buildings, sheer beauty.     

And the following day it was time to leave Pisa.  In my last post (Flornece) I spoke about advice I can share from my own lessons learnt – and here is another one.  When you travel with chocolate hazelnut spread (as I am sure you all do) do not, hear  me, do not  leave it in your carry on.  Remember that rather wonderful Amedei spread I purchased for the less than wonderful price?  Well it was in my hand luggage (my chocolate must travel with me).  Having managed to sneak through Easy Jet check in without them realising the sheer volume of my carry on I was feeling rather delighted at my subversive success only to be brought quickkly back to earth by the cruelty of security check.  I am a good little traveller; I don’t try and take bottles of water or other liquids through security, but who would have thought chocolate spread counted as a liquid?  Really, if you want to get into semantics surely it is a paste.  Well security didn’t think so; or maybe they just spied it thought the x-ray and thought ‘mmm, that would go rather nicely on my lunch’.  Whatever the reason I had to hand over my wondrous find to strangers in an airport. 

Dejected and disappointed, I continue through security into the vast spaces of airport shops and what taunts me as I walk through?  Amedei chocolate spread of course.  But then I look at the price, 10,50 Euro – nice mark up and no thank you.  But as I queue for passport control the recesses of my mind tell me this is my one opportunity to indulge, at least for the moment, in yummy Amedei spread so around I turn simultaneous pulling out my wallet and euros to buy another jar of my much anticipated spread.  Lesson learnt, it now travels in my hold baggage and has cost me a rather spectacular 21,30 eueo – ouch!



Day 14 – Florence – A chocolate renaissance…?

So here I am in Florence - the birthplace of the Renaissance, not to mention crazy over-crowded tourism, and day 14 of my European chocolate spree.  And you might be surprised to read that it’s not all about chocolate as I fear I am still suffering a touch of cocoa overload.  So much so, I have to force myself to indulge in chocolate treats all in the name of research and so I can dutifully report back to you.  I am aware that quite a few will not believe these statements, but there isn’t an inch of sarcasm or mistruth included.  So the indulgences I have had to force upon myself - yesterday it was gelato as at least I figured it technically isn’t chocolate.  And not only did I have to force one down in the name of research, but two. 

The first from the Turin gelato ‘chain’ GROM (although I hesitate to use the term chain as GROM is the antithesis of what chains are meant to be - luscious gelato made from local ingredients with slow food practices).  But aside from slow food principles they also achieve that gorgeously thick gelato texture I have only found in Turin, although not quite managing to rival the wonder that is Café San Carlo, now a distant but clear memory – mmmm…But back to GROM, the chocolate fondente (dark) was suitably rich with an appropriate amount of bitterness offering darkness you don’t normally get in ice cream.  It was accompanied by tarrone (nougat) with the large and delectable chunks of almonds being a welcome surprise.  So that was gelato number one.

Number two came later in the day as I am both perusing and harranging well regarded Florentine chocolatier, Vestri, who also dabble in reputably good gelato - how could I not have another cup?  And in my need to justify two gelato indulgences, I only ever have the piccolo (small) cup; I’ve seen tourists here with some rather scary whoppingly large cones overloaded with more gelato in one sitting than I will get through on my entire trip, so I do get to feel a little superior in my excesses after all!

But back to Vestri and their gelato, my choices this time round are a rather stunning dark chocolate with Sicilian orange that is bursting with the flavour of orange essential oils offset against a powerful chocolate taste.  My other choice was an interesting but ultimately underwhelming pine nut that to be honest was a little ‘ho-hum’.  Overall the texture had nothing on its northern neighbors in Turin, but it is still good and let’s face it, when is gelato ever bad?  (Never if you ask my friend Heidi who has told me her rule for Italy – a gelato a day…)

But as for having to coerce myself into chocolate treats, gelato was a secondary consideration when visiting Vestri.  It was of course about chocolate and necessitated a good chat to the owner and a good number of purchases including some of my new favourite chocolate items, cremino, and an accidental sugar free chocolate purchase (which is now, coincidentally, a present for Dad!).  If  there is one thing I have learnt, and can offer as sage advice when traipsing about on your own Italian chocolate travels, that is be vigilant against the presence of sugar free chocolate!  It will try and sneak its sucrose free self into your purchases as soon as you let your guard down.  I know, as it has happened to me, and on several occasions I have escaped just in the nick of time, thankfully knowing the word for sugar (zucchero) and making the connection on the labeling just before handing over my hard earned euros.  It may be great for diabetics and other people who choose to have their chocolate sans sugar but for the rest of us - be warned and be aware!  And don’t be fooled that sugar free is somehow free of calories, if only life was that easy…!  The calories are still lurking about there, just presumably in a more diabetic friendly manner.

But for someone to start this entry with the words ‘it isn’t all about the chocolate’ I’ve only managed to transgress to chocolate gelato which isn’t much of a stretch.  However there is another food love in my life, maybe not the great love that chocolate is, but we certainly enjoy regular rendezvous – cured meats!  And to continue the rather pitiful love analogies, I flirted with salume finnochiti (salami with fennel seeds – a Tuscan specialty) in Turin along with lardo.  However today was my turn the be flirted with by the enigmatic delicatessen from Mercato Centrale, Flavio and his band of merry meat wielding men.  A delight of the most amazing salami, prosciuotto crudo and the like (including some horrendously expensive white truffles that of course I didn’t buy but I did get to smell their heady and expensive scent – thousands of Euros worth just before my olfactory glands).  But delight was not just the meats, but in the charm of Flavio and co who are passionate about what they sell and it would appear passionate about life – an Italian cliché.

My new friends are generous with their tastings, slicing me off all sorts of delights, putting them with the appropriate bread or cheese and expectantly waiting for my response.  And their generosity extends to the good stuff too (although not the truffles!) but the proscioutto crudo di Palma and san Danielle – melt in your mouth sweetness and prosciotto crudo Toscana contrasting with  its salty flavour (the merry meat men tell me that is what Tuscany food, and presumably people, are all about - salt and spice).  But if you’ve been following this blog you know me well enough by now that I can’t say no to anything ‘dolce’ in flavour so I go with the San Danielle.  Not to mention some rather tasty goose salami (salume d’oc) and some gorgeously deep red breasola.  Sadly, they didn’t have any donkey salami – I did ask, but it seems to be more of a northern specialty.

The following morning I return to the market, a little too early for a holiday, but I am leaving Florence and had come up with the inspired idea that vacuum packed cured meats would make a nice accompaniment to an upcoming Glaswegian dinner with friends.  And my meaty friends graciously remembered not only me but my name and gave me the royal treatment all over again, including supplementing my breakfast with a repeat of the overly generous tastings.  I wish I had longer in Florence just so I could return to my new friends.

But the title of this entry is whether Florence is a chocolate renaissance.  To be honest, chocolate (in the non-gelato) form is a little thin on the ground after the glut of offerings in Turin.  However, like the city itself, there are a few highlights that get me through. 

I hope for a highlight when I stop off  at a bar two locals have recommended for hot chocolate, Rivore cafe on the Piazza della Signoria.  I am suspicious as it is smack bang in the middle of a tourist area.  But I brave the bum bags and backpacks and there is a mix of locals and tourists and a concentrated amount of attitude from the waiter.  Sadly the hot chocolate doesn’t live up to the attitude or the hype

But moving on to the highlights, the first is an accidental find, a simple but charming shop, run by a suitably charming woman, called Dolce Forte (Sweet Sour) in Piazza Santa Maria Novella (just opposite the old Farmacia).  She has an amazing offering of quality brands including Slitti, Domori, Amedei,Venchi and the like.  But what she really offers in a fantastic knowledge and an opinion – and I immediately love anyone who will brave an opinion (I should correct that will brave an informed opinon) as to what are the best  For instance, my charming hostess aggress that Domori and Amedei are my best bet in the blocks whilst Slitti (and another brand I don’t have to hand) are the best for chocolates.  And she is happy to chat, which I  also love!  And as a result I am happy to buy.  Some wonderful Domori products including single origin blocks and a pack of six tasting square samples for which I am rather fond of the white chocolate and licorique.  But it was time to experiment and try some new things, which include a box of pricey but I have high hopes, chocolate covered Sicilian oranges, individual chocolates and nougatines.  And all beautifully wrapped.  What more could I ask for?

My other renaissance experience was one where I expected little and was very happily surprised.  My lovely B&B proprietor from Il Cielo had recommended this place, as had Tuscan Diva, Judy , so on my last day, feeling a little over sweetened, I set out heartedly in search of this elusive chocolate store.  I told myself on the way that I would only buy blocks and only if I had some confidence they would be good - I am not going to buy individual chocolates (as I know I will just eat them and I have been over indulging for a little too long now not to show some caution).  So when I finally get there, which as it turns out is the show room attached to their kitchen, it is just a very simple affair and there are some blocks but the bulk of products are ciocolatini, or individual chocolates.  I prepare myself to not buy anything but then it gets the better of me and I give in and buy a few as the flavours are so interesting.  My stash includes orange and fennel, lavender and lemon, raspberry, dark chocolate ganache and salted caramel.  And off I hike, several kilometers back to my B&B, tired at the end of the day. And yes my tiredness is relevant, rather than just boring detail, as the problem is when I taste the chocolates I wasn’t going to buy they are good, damned good, really really good! It is a chocolate renaissance after all!  Dare I say these are some of the best individual chocolates I have ever had.  And sadly tired and exhausted and leaving Florence first thing in the morning, I don’t get to return.  However I do get to enthuse here about the quality and strongly encourage any visitors to Florence to visit, buy, enjoy and let me live vicariously through these experiences.  And the flavours that may sound a little bizarre are beautifully executed, subtle, complimentary and delicious.  They successfully avoid the possibility of weird/novelty flavour combinations that I abhor and just deliver a wonderful taste experience after all.  Oh, and the name of this amazing chocolatier - La Bottega del Cioccolato.

And now as I prepare to leave Florence to meander through the Tuscan country side, I have to ponder the question of whether my experience at La Bottega del Cioccolato has been the cultural highlight of this city full of cultural wonders?  Possibly.  Michelangelo’s David is truly stunning but this was better although my new market friends are close contenders for second place!

Day 11 - Turin – And my new favourite place on earth!

This one is a long one, but Italy, and Torino are treating me so well I have to share.  I am constantly amazed at the beauty of this city and thankful to be here, it seems like every time I turn a corner I am in another stunning piazza with vistas of palaces, ornate churches or just a stylishly relaxed café.

And I have been indulging in the regional choclate specialty of gianduja (and giandujotti) but possibly a little too much. I genuinely adore the stuff but am starting to find myself avoiding buying any more (and I do have more than enough to keep me, along with a small village, in supply for quite some time).  As a result I seem to have inadvertently taken to buying biscotti instead – and I don’t even like biscuits that much!  Although the little chocolate profiterole I had today was exceptional, but technically not a biscuit.

And then of course there is the gelato.  The Torinians (or however they should be addressed) appear to love the stuff.  More than I have seen anywhere else in Italy, they can be found slurping it down on street corners, steps, cafés, shop fronts – wherever there is space.  And of course I’ve had Italian gelato before and recognise how good it can be, but there seemed to be something else going on here so thought I should find out a little more. 

The first thing I learn is that not all gelato is created equal, as with the strong regional focus on food there is regional differences to gelato.  Apparently ‘up north’ they use more egg yolks and cream – and the result?  Beyond anything of the ice-cream family I have ever had before!  The texture is so thick, creamy and absolutely luscious that I cannot describe it, but do revel in the memory as I try and find words to do it justice. And add the local flavour specialty, gianduja of course, to the equation and I can never look at ice cream the same again.  I also had some coco (coconut) and fragola (strawberry) but the gianduja was by far the best.  Particularly from the Café San Carlo – although skip the beautifully interiored café/ restaurant with their overpriced, not very nice ravioli and abundance of attitude and grab a cup (or cone, but I’m a cup girl) of their sweet offerings around the corner for 2,00 euro and settle yourself into a space on the piazza and watch the world go by. 

I worry about my gelato quality diminishing after leaving Turin and try and calculate in my mind how many gelato I can eat in a day without getting enormously fat (bearing in mind a typical day also has to include hot chocolate, chocolates, fennel seed salame and the like).  Sadly, I think I am rationed to no more than one a day...

But as much as the gelato is fantastic, I haven’t even got to my new favourite place on earth – a bold statement I am aware, but a very true statement.

I wrote a couple of very short notes to myself  when I first entered my new favourite place on earth and they are a little silly, a little excited; a bit like a gushing teenager meeting The Beatles (or insert your relevant contemporary cultural reference – although  please note The Beatles are not my contemporaries, more my folks).  Anyway, notes read:

Officially the most amazing place on earth! So so so phenomenally excited!!! 

And yes the underline, repetition and multiple exclamation marks are what I wrote.  So where/what is my new favourite place on earth?   Well, with a little effort it can be found in an unassuming part of Torino, on the number 42 bus line (yes I even had to navigate Italian buses to get myself here, not quite sure where you are going to end up – true dedication and very impressed with my brave and successful effort) and it is a place called Eataly and it is the most incredible food store I have ever been in.  Sadly their website isn’t so great, not for us English speakers anyway, otherwise I would direct you there – but it is this enormous temple to all things of the Italian gourmand.  Classy but unassuming it has everything and everything is of quality– aisles offering pasta, cookbooks, fresh licorice sticks, jams, nougat (tarrone), cooking equipment, amazing meats, fresh seafood, fresh nuts weighed out for you, a café where you can stand at the banco (bar) and drink your macchiato, fresh and gleaming gelato, cheese and the list goes on.  But really there isn’t a list – as this is, of course, all about chocolate!!! Actually I did buy a few other things including the freshest of local hazelnuts roasted to perfection, some phenomenally good salame with fennel seeds and the tasty but freaky textured Italian specialty Lardo, yes as the name suggests this is just fat.  And of course I purchased myself a ridiculous amount of chocolate.

As usual there were a lot of chocolate brands I didn’t know but then there were so many that I did – and never before have I seen them, or could I have expected to see them, under one roof!  There was Venchi (significantly cheaper and with a better range than the Venchi store), Garbino who I had drooled over and spent a considerable sum at the day before (in this case more expensive than the store), Caffarel who do some amazing things with hazelnuts, and of course my unrequited love (unrequited as it is so difficult for me to find) Domori.  Then there was Barrati Milano, Uurzi, Leudere…. 

The only problem with Eataly (aside from being a good 24 hour flight away from where I live) is the chocolate section is positioned right at the front of the store, which means that as I stood there in stupor and wonderment – for quite a time than is neither normal or acceptable, the staff must have been wondering what the hell I was doing.  And then I spent so long wandering backwards and forwards through this shrine of cocao that I was waiting for someone to ask me what I was doing, accusing me of commercial espionage, or at beat stealing.  But somewhat disappointingly, no-one paid me the slightest attention; a shame as I would have liked to have used my halting Italian to explain how magnifico this place was.  But alas, maybe it is normal for traveling chocolate enthusiasts to be lost amongst all this glory.  And even after the reality of how much I spent (lets just say it is well into the three figure mark) and of course the very real luggage allowance problem I am going to have deal with in a few days (at the moment getting by being a ‘bag lady’ as such, but Easyjet surely won’t see it that way) I couldn’t stop an enormous smile from overtaking my face.  Maybe that is why they paid me no attention, with that daft smile I must have looked a little on the ‘touched’ side of things.  But needless to say, Eataly is now my undisputed favourite place on the planet!

And as a finishing note (although there is so much chocolate stuff of Torino that I want to blog about including the hot chocolate and il biciern, there is only so much I can risk sending my readers to sleep) I have been trying to keep running whilst on holidays.  Obviously I want to keep my fitness up, but it doesn’t go astray with the vast chocolate consumption either (although suspect chocolate consumption is outweighing anything achieved from running).  And I ran in Germany quite happily, amongst other runners either in parks, along the river or in the forest.  But it seems running in Italy, or at least Torino (or at the very least the part of Torino I was staying in) is not the done thing.  After a particular day of indulgence I thought I would get a quick 12km in and off I went, running gear on, hair tied back, garmin set – but the amount of odd, bemused and bewildered looks I got was extraordinary.  From adults, children, old people – even a dog or two I do believe.  I heard one father explaining to his toddler what I was doing when stretching as she was so perplexed by my activities.  Has no-one every run in Torino before?  I do not exaggerate, teenagers in the street made fun of me!  Now I know that my running style may not be the best, but it isn’t that bad!  Seriously, very odd experience.  But I say too bad to your bemused looks and teasing ways, I love my running, and I love my chocolate and the two exist quite nicely in my world, thank you very much Torino and your non-running residents.  Luckily I love your city, and your food, so I will forgive you!

Day 9 – Turin – Mi Adora Torino

I’m sorry Germany; I think I may be a fair weather friend.  I think I may also have had conversations like this with boyfriends past.  Really, it’s not you, it’s me.  I know I said I loved you, but that was just the place I was in at the time and maybe I was a little hasty.  I do like you, can’t we be friends? You see I really love Italy…

And whilst I am not sure that I am comfortable harnessing the abbreviated text based language of youth – but OMG seems so appropriate.  Particularly if followed by several exclamation marks – such as OMG!!!!

I don’t even know where to start as I feel like I just end up a dithering mess of excited enthusiasm.   So let’s start with the obvious; I find myself in Torino, the oft forgotten Italian city eclipsed by the likes of Roma, Firenze and Venezia.  And to be fair, the trip from the airport seems to justify such negligence.  I try to ignore the surrounds and tell myself I’m here for the chocolate, not anything else.   But then at a certain point in my journey, Italy (or at least the Italy of my mind) starts to expose herself. And thankfully Torino is not only the home of chocolate in Italy but also a stunningly beautiful city!

And with so much beauty around – the chocolate, the architecture, the shoes, the Italian men – I find myself walking around with a perpetual and slightly stupid grin on my face, just like when you fall in love.  So I return to the title of this entry; adora il Torino!

Now for the boring practicalities, just skip this paragraph if you don’t like boring practicalities.  Torino (Turin for us English speakers who choose not to put on pretentious Italian turns like myself) is the chocolate capital of Italy having produced the wondrous dark stuff since the 17^th century.  Not only that, but the area, Piemonte, is world famous for its rather amazing hazelnuts.  And put chocolate and hazelnuts together and what do you have?  No, not Nutella (well okay, yes Nutella but more the point) gianduja and molto happiness!

First stop is to buy the local Chocopass that gives me ten tastings in two days for a paltry 12,00 Euro.  Sounds reasonable but I must admit I am half way through day one and already the sweet stuff is taking its toll.

Second stop is a factory tour of local and renowned artisan producer Guido Gobino of which I have heard magical things about.  (It is worth checking out their website www.guidogobino.it.)  The factory is a mixture of highly specialist and scientific machines and handmade craftsman.  Anyone who has ever tried to temper chocolate (or more likely watched those on Master Chef try and temper) you would feel a little jealous for the rather phenomenal and specific tempering machines they have.  However, what impresses me at a production level is two things, the first is they purchase beans but do the full processing themselves – no buying in chocolate.  The second is their commitment to the aesthetic and how much energy they have obviously invested in design to make the finished product the full experience it should be.

But let’s be honest, what really impresses is the taste!  And taste we do.  Gorbino kindly provide a tasting of most of their products of which our group of ten civilized, polite people turn slightly frenzied as arms outstretch all at once, in some fear one might just miss out.  Highlights include:

• Their famous Integral Sea Salt and Extra Virgin Olive Oil Cremino; a stunning morsel of gianduja that almost finishes on the sweet and delicate taste of the particular salt used, but just before the end the olive oil and its smooth flavour kick in along with chocolate and hazelnut base.
• Dark Chocolate Cremino; this looks great with layers of dark and milk chocolate but the full cocao, slightly biscuit flavour, hits the spot against the normal sweetness of gianduja.
• Giandujottinot Tourinot; a darker version of the classic gianduja and in a tiny 5g size (I almost convince myself I haven’t inhaled a bunch of chocolate when eating these) but what impresses most is the thick, luscious texture.
• And a surprise entrant in standouts is the Enrobed Ginger in White Chocolate and Mint; neither white chocolate or ginger are normally my thing, but the ginger cuts through the white chocolate and the mint lightens it resulting in a wonderfully balanced combination.

So these are the standouts.  I do need to be honest and cite the not so good.  Do you remember me mentioning the use of pumpkin seeds and chocolate in Germany in a previous post?  I kind of get that.  But Gobino takes it one step further with a seasonal specialty – Chocolate Enrobed Pumpkin.  Yes, you did read correctly.  They actually have a play on words/Italian phrase they use to advertise it but it eludes me but I still can’t get past pumpkin and chocolate.  Now to be fair, this isn’t just a piece of good ol’ Aussie roasted pumpkin with some chocolate drizzled over it, it is candied pumpkin enrobed in milk chocolate.  And it isn’t actually bad as such, it is unusual and dare I say unnecessary, but I am sure some people love it.

Needless to say I love Gobino and whilst I don’t feel the need for pumpkin chocolate I  did make an awful lot of purchases, as you can see from the photo (the bulk of which are from Gobino and a few ring ins from other stores, excluding those I ate during the day).  No surprises I also find myself significantly poorer and with a luggage dilemma as I had already maxed out my luggage quota.

I should note that the factory store I visited is open to the public for those who wish to seek it out (it isn’t that far from the city, about a ten minute walk) and it is different and more accessible than the boutiques in the city (and now one in Milan).  I also like that the factory store has different offerings, particularly with more blocks and gianduja.  And keep an eye out for a great bargain – 500g bags of giandujotto for only 7,50 Euro instead of the normal 18,00.  It isn’t quite as prettily packaged, and you get some giandujotto that have been personalized for other companies (i.e. promotional) but it’s still the same Gobino product and a great bargain.

There has been other chocolate tested, consumed and enjoyed today but nothing compares to Gobino, so let’s leave it at that as I also adora il Gobino!

Oh, happy days! 

Day 7 - Berlin - Sunshine & Meanderings

Not forgetting I am in Germany and this wasn't meant to be about chocolate, I left my apartment to meander about with no great chocolate pursuits in mind (and safe in the knowledge I had a reasonable stash at the apartment and therefore no great need either).  However sometimes happy finds come when you least expect them and so happened to me. 

I stumbled upon artisan chocolatier Atelier Cocao wandering around the Oranienburger Tor district off Berlin.  They manufacture at this location and like some 50's American tv housewife, they were cooling chocolates on an open window sill and I could smell the chocolate wafting from across the road.  Okay, this is a slight exaggeration, they were cooling the chocolates by an open door, but a door doesn't allow me to conjure up black and white America tv cookies cooling on the window sill type images.  Likewise, you couldn't quite smell the chocolate from across the road, but you could smell it whilst walking past and it was rather intoxicating.  But I prefer my first image.  However, it is no exaggeration to tell you that blessed chocolate smell enveloped me wonderfully, even if momentarily!

Sadly the store doesn't open until later in the day, so after obtrusively sticking my nose up against the window for a little longer than is polite, I decide to try and get back later in the day.  So off a wandering again I go, this time to Prenzlauer district where in the autumnal sunshine I get rather excited to see across the road a store called Neon Chocolate.  Given the lovely little boutiques and cafes I have been passing I have high hopes for an aesthetic little den of Berlin chocolate loveliness.  My pace quickens as I cross the road, expectation rising with every step, only to stop abruptly as I realise this is no chocolate store, but just a confusing name for an art gallery.  Be damned you clever, quirky gallery naming folk!  But I do laugh at myself and get back to enjoying the gorgeous sunshine and this fantastic neighborhood of Berlin, happy to have left the horrendous hordes of tourists and cold grey skies a few U Bahn stops behind me.

Which brings me to my next S Bahn trip (you have to love the amazingly efficient public transport in Berlin!).  Remember my little artisan find earlier this morning, I realise I am about to pass through the same area on the train so make a rash decision to jump off and return.  And they have a lovely little environment going on with tables and chairs for lingering out in the sun, but me being me, I always like to chat, and all the better if it is about chocolate.  Fortunately the lovely sales girl ‘sprechen sie Englisch’ and is happy to tell me about their products as I stand there listening, but constantly distracted by that enveloping chocolate smell.  Oh, not to mention distracted by the samples on offer!

The first sample is oh so German and topped with a number of things including the pumpkin seeds that seem to find themselves into all sorts of German foodstuffs.  As I taste, the gorgeously nice girl explains numerous things including that they sell in a number of other places, that the chocolate is Peruvian (hmmm, I’ve never really had a good Peruvian experience) and that it is both fair-trade and organic (ditto to organic and often fair-trade chocolate, despite good intentions). 

I move on to the 70% and must admit, despite wanting to love it I am left under whelmed.  Which is a shame, as they are so nice and as I stand there, internally passing judgment on their chocolate, she continues to explain one of their specialties; chocolate embedded with local dried flowers i.e. rose, lavender and what I think after a lack of language and one drawing later dandelion. 

The chocolate certainly isn’t bad (its just not great) and given that they are so nice I do leave with a block of 70% with cranberries in it.  Why, I have no idea as I am not even sure I like cranberries that much and not normally in my chocolate – I can see a present for someone coming on!  I also leave with marzipan and nougat individual chocolates, again not my normal fare but I don’t mind these and it does seem to be the German way with chocolate after all, that and pumpkin seeds (although stay tuned for some interesting concoctions involving chocolate and pumpkin.)

And on that note I finish up my German adventures, confused and delighted by my last chocolate experience (still can’t work out why I brought that damned cranberry chocolate!!).  But now I am officially in trouble, I’ve arrived in Italy and oh my goodness the chocolate is phenomenal, the stores are stunning – everything is amazing. 

As for my blog, can’t type; too busy stuffing chocolate in my mouth…