Day 14 – Florence – A chocolate renaissance…?

So here I am in Florence - the birthplace of the Renaissance, not to mention crazy over-crowded tourism, and day 14 of my European chocolate spree.  And you might be surprised to read that it’s not all about chocolate as I fear I am still suffering a touch of cocoa overload.  So much so, I have to force myself to indulge in chocolate treats all in the name of research and so I can dutifully report back to you.  I am aware that quite a few will not believe these statements, but there isn’t an inch of sarcasm or mistruth included.  So the indulgences I have had to force upon myself - yesterday it was gelato as at least I figured it technically isn’t chocolate.  And not only did I have to force one down in the name of research, but two. 

The first from the Turin gelato ‘chain’ GROM (although I hesitate to use the term chain as GROM is the antithesis of what chains are meant to be - luscious gelato made from local ingredients with slow food practices).  But aside from slow food principles they also achieve that gorgeously thick gelato texture I have only found in Turin, although not quite managing to rival the wonder that is Café San Carlo, now a distant but clear memory – mmmm…But back to GROM, the chocolate fondente (dark) was suitably rich with an appropriate amount of bitterness offering darkness you don’t normally get in ice cream.  It was accompanied by tarrone (nougat) with the large and delectable chunks of almonds being a welcome surprise.  So that was gelato number one.

Number two came later in the day as I am both perusing and harranging well regarded Florentine chocolatier, Vestri, who also dabble in reputably good gelato - how could I not have another cup?  And in my need to justify two gelato indulgences, I only ever have the piccolo (small) cup; I’ve seen tourists here with some rather scary whoppingly large cones overloaded with more gelato in one sitting than I will get through on my entire trip, so I do get to feel a little superior in my excesses after all!

But back to Vestri and their gelato, my choices this time round are a rather stunning dark chocolate with Sicilian orange that is bursting with the flavour of orange essential oils offset against a powerful chocolate taste.  My other choice was an interesting but ultimately underwhelming pine nut that to be honest was a little ‘ho-hum’.  Overall the texture had nothing on its northern neighbors in Turin, but it is still good and let’s face it, when is gelato ever bad?  (Never if you ask my friend Heidi who has told me her rule for Italy – a gelato a day…)

But as for having to coerce myself into chocolate treats, gelato was a secondary consideration when visiting Vestri.  It was of course about chocolate and necessitated a good chat to the owner and a good number of purchases including some of my new favourite chocolate items, cremino, and an accidental sugar free chocolate purchase (which is now, coincidentally, a present for Dad!).  If  there is one thing I have learnt, and can offer as sage advice when traipsing about on your own Italian chocolate travels, that is be vigilant against the presence of sugar free chocolate!  It will try and sneak its sucrose free self into your purchases as soon as you let your guard down.  I know, as it has happened to me, and on several occasions I have escaped just in the nick of time, thankfully knowing the word for sugar (zucchero) and making the connection on the labeling just before handing over my hard earned euros.  It may be great for diabetics and other people who choose to have their chocolate sans sugar but for the rest of us - be warned and be aware!  And don’t be fooled that sugar free is somehow free of calories, if only life was that easy…!  The calories are still lurking about there, just presumably in a more diabetic friendly manner.

But for someone to start this entry with the words ‘it isn’t all about the chocolate’ I’ve only managed to transgress to chocolate gelato which isn’t much of a stretch.  However there is another food love in my life, maybe not the great love that chocolate is, but we certainly enjoy regular rendezvous – cured meats!  And to continue the rather pitiful love analogies, I flirted with salume finnochiti (salami with fennel seeds – a Tuscan specialty) in Turin along with lardo.  However today was my turn the be flirted with by the enigmatic delicatessen from Mercato Centrale, Flavio and his band of merry meat wielding men.  A delight of the most amazing salami, prosciuotto crudo and the like (including some horrendously expensive white truffles that of course I didn’t buy but I did get to smell their heady and expensive scent – thousands of Euros worth just before my olfactory glands).  But delight was not just the meats, but in the charm of Flavio and co who are passionate about what they sell and it would appear passionate about life – an Italian cliché.

My new friends are generous with their tastings, slicing me off all sorts of delights, putting them with the appropriate bread or cheese and expectantly waiting for my response.  And their generosity extends to the good stuff too (although not the truffles!) but the proscioutto crudo di Palma and san Danielle – melt in your mouth sweetness and prosciotto crudo Toscana contrasting with  its salty flavour (the merry meat men tell me that is what Tuscany food, and presumably people, are all about - salt and spice).  But if you’ve been following this blog you know me well enough by now that I can’t say no to anything ‘dolce’ in flavour so I go with the San Danielle.  Not to mention some rather tasty goose salami (salume d’oc) and some gorgeously deep red breasola.  Sadly, they didn’t have any donkey salami – I did ask, but it seems to be more of a northern specialty.

The following morning I return to the market, a little too early for a holiday, but I am leaving Florence and had come up with the inspired idea that vacuum packed cured meats would make a nice accompaniment to an upcoming Glaswegian dinner with friends.  And my meaty friends graciously remembered not only me but my name and gave me the royal treatment all over again, including supplementing my breakfast with a repeat of the overly generous tastings.  I wish I had longer in Florence just so I could return to my new friends.

But the title of this entry is whether Florence is a chocolate renaissance.  To be honest, chocolate (in the non-gelato) form is a little thin on the ground after the glut of offerings in Turin.  However, like the city itself, there are a few highlights that get me through. 

I hope for a highlight when I stop off  at a bar two locals have recommended for hot chocolate, Rivore cafe on the Piazza della Signoria.  I am suspicious as it is smack bang in the middle of a tourist area.  But I brave the bum bags and backpacks and there is a mix of locals and tourists and a concentrated amount of attitude from the waiter.  Sadly the hot chocolate doesn’t live up to the attitude or the hype

But moving on to the highlights, the first is an accidental find, a simple but charming shop, run by a suitably charming woman, called Dolce Forte (Sweet Sour) in Piazza Santa Maria Novella (just opposite the old Farmacia).  She has an amazing offering of quality brands including Slitti, Domori, Amedei,Venchi and the like.  But what she really offers in a fantastic knowledge and an opinion – and I immediately love anyone who will brave an opinion (I should correct that will brave an informed opinon) as to what are the best  For instance, my charming hostess aggress that Domori and Amedei are my best bet in the blocks whilst Slitti (and another brand I don’t have to hand) are the best for chocolates.  And she is happy to chat, which I  also love!  And as a result I am happy to buy.  Some wonderful Domori products including single origin blocks and a pack of six tasting square samples for which I am rather fond of the white chocolate and licorique.  But it was time to experiment and try some new things, which include a box of pricey but I have high hopes, chocolate covered Sicilian oranges, individual chocolates and nougatines.  And all beautifully wrapped.  What more could I ask for?

My other renaissance experience was one where I expected little and was very happily surprised.  My lovely B&B proprietor from Il Cielo had recommended this place, as had Tuscan Diva, Judy , so on my last day, feeling a little over sweetened, I set out heartedly in search of this elusive chocolate store.  I told myself on the way that I would only buy blocks and only if I had some confidence they would be good - I am not going to buy individual chocolates (as I know I will just eat them and I have been over indulging for a little too long now not to show some caution).  So when I finally get there, which as it turns out is the show room attached to their kitchen, it is just a very simple affair and there are some blocks but the bulk of products are ciocolatini, or individual chocolates.  I prepare myself to not buy anything but then it gets the better of me and I give in and buy a few as the flavours are so interesting.  My stash includes orange and fennel, lavender and lemon, raspberry, dark chocolate ganache and salted caramel.  And off I hike, several kilometers back to my B&B, tired at the end of the day. And yes my tiredness is relevant, rather than just boring detail, as the problem is when I taste the chocolates I wasn’t going to buy they are good, damned good, really really good! It is a chocolate renaissance after all!  Dare I say these are some of the best individual chocolates I have ever had.  And sadly tired and exhausted and leaving Florence first thing in the morning, I don’t get to return.  However I do get to enthuse here about the quality and strongly encourage any visitors to Florence to visit, buy, enjoy and let me live vicariously through these experiences.  And the flavours that may sound a little bizarre are beautifully executed, subtle, complimentary and delicious.  They successfully avoid the possibility of weird/novelty flavour combinations that I abhor and just deliver a wonderful taste experience after all.  Oh, and the name of this amazing chocolatier - La Bottega del Cioccolato.

And now as I prepare to leave Florence to meander through the Tuscan country side, I have to ponder the question of whether my experience at La Bottega del Cioccolato has been the cultural highlight of this city full of cultural wonders?  Possibly.  Michelangelo’s David is truly stunning but this was better although my new market friends are close contenders for second place!