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Monday
Oct182010

Day 4 – Berlin – The good, the bad and the ugly

I am sure one is meant to find something meaningful to do on their first day in a great city like Berlin, and going shopping possibly isn’t the experience.  But I justify it as it was all about the chocolate, research really, just ignore the few clothing detours… 

To be honest, it wasn’t my intention however not being organized enough to make an intended walking tour on time provided me with a rather convenient excuse to detour to up market Berlin (but Korean sounding) department store Ko De We.  Surely this mammoth of exclusive consumerism would have appropriate chocolate offerings for a traveling Australian.

Needless to say I am expecting a lot from this food hall, but alas disappointment often accompanies expectation.  There is certainly a lot of chocolate filling the 6th floor food hall but nothing of the quality I was seeking.  Offerings include an enormous array of Lindt in every conceivable flavour – think hot Mango & Cayenne, Cranberry, Blueberry and Lavender or the more pedestrian Chocolate Truffle and Vanilla.

Then there was Hachez of which I found rather dire when trying in Australia.  Ditto to Anthon Berg

New for me, the well established (the date of 1909 is perpetually quoted) German brand Leysieffer.  I had popped into their store during the day and must admit to being a little under-whelmed, curious enough to revisit the store before leaving but no real desire to purchase just now. 

Other brands include my nemesis, Godiva, an unknown brand Heilmann and a brand I more often associate with Marzipan; Niedergger Lubek

Not wanting to accept disappointment, I do several laps of the chocolate section hoping to spy my desired Italian and French masters – surely not an unfair expectation.  This is an up market European retail store and the best offerings I’m getting are Lindt and Godiva!  Has no-one told Ko De Wa Berlin is no longer on post war rations

But no point complaining, I decide to make the most of it.  Heilmann is something new and I can purchase some rather convenient 45g bars for less than one Euro (although the low price does concern me a little).  I did intend to buy a small block of raspberry and balsamic dark chocolate (thinking it may be akin to the sumptuous strawberry and balsamic offerings of my favourite Melbourne chocoaltier Xocolatl) but a look at the ingredients list makes me quickly return it to the shelf – NO chocolate should every have that many ingredients.

So with few options I find myself paying for the following bounty:

  • Heilemann Cocao 62%
  • Heilemann Pfeffer Orange (orange milk chocolate with green pepper) 32%
  • Niederegger Nougat Aus Tradition 45%

And I know, there is no excuse for the Godiva.  I know it will be rubbish – but I really do want to believe; believe the hype, believe the beautiful packaging, believe that it really is the best chocolate in the world.  I know it isn’t but every now and then I have a blip in reality.  At least the cost is cheaper than home, about half the price at 7,50 Euro per 100g.

And as a result I find myself buying:

  • Godiva tasting squares – 50% and 85%
  • Godiva Volupte 72% (dark chocolate ganache)
  • Godiva almond truffle thingy (my German isn’t so great to know exactly…)

And somehow post-purchase and amongst the flurry of expectation and disappointment I find the good stuff I had given up on.  Aimlessly strolling around the food hall I stumble across a corner of more chocolate including a small selection my old stalwart, Valrhona which tempts me with flavours such as Pecan but I will leave this brand alone until I am  in it’s native France.

There are some other brands I don’t know including Biffor.  And then, turning another corner – oh, manna from heaven!  Truffles and individual chocolates by Valrhona, Caffarel, Fauchon, Hediard – oh Europe I love you!  How did I miss this?

And then another corner and another onslaught of chocolate loveliness including Italian boutique brand Domori (although next to Anthon Berg – sacrilege!).  And as I turn around in wonderment I finally find my sometimes friend Coppenauer (I was wondering where you were) but to be honest, the range isn’t any better than that of Monty’s in Brisbane so I take a deep breath and move on.

I indulge in my first ever Valrhona individual chocolate with a rather enormous dark chocolate ganache (Valrhona Oblique Noir 70%), although a little disappointed with the unnecessarily large size.  Where are the delicate little morsels that lend more of an aesthetic that would be appropriate?

I also experiment with a new brand, Laderach, how can I not?  Not only do the chocolate (pieces of block broken up and available by weight) look rather amazing but also the lovely sales lady genuinely and emphatically tells me is the best of what they sell (although I do err on the side of caution as it is Swiss).  As such I purchase myself a little of the 70% Shokolade Zartbitter and a piece of the same with whole hazelnuts.

And turning another corner and this time I find French brand Lenotre of whose individual chocolates look great but I stop, for fear of overload (and clothes not fitting). 

No more corners!!

And the verdict…

Laderach Shokolade 70% Very nice, good flavour and great texture.  Will be buying more!

Laderach Shokolade 70% with hazelnuts Absolutely fantastic and addictive.  I will be buying more but only maybe a small amount otherwise I WILL eat in one sitting.  Very good.

Godiva Volupte Dark Chocolate Ganache 72% An experiment to see how it compared with the one I have reviewed that I purchased from David Jones. The texture was certainly better, possibly due to storage, and the taste okay – Godiva is not often bad just terribly overstated.  And it applies to this as well.

Godiva 85% square Terrible for what it is, or should be, all I get is bitterness…

Heilemann Cocao 62% It doesn’t offend me but it is non-descript and isn’t really offering any great flavour.

Heilemann Pfeffer Orange (orange milk chocolate with green pepper) 32% Interesting, the orange is quite nice and the pepper would be better if it wasn’t quite so strong.  I don’t know that I would buy again but I don’t mind it, just the quality isn’t there (and you are not really paying for quality).

Niederegger Nougat Aus Tradition 45% Not bad, let’s be fair it isn’t great and again not great chocolate price, however the nutty flavour is nicely present but maybe I enjoy it as it has more nut flavour than any particular chocolate flavour.



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