Michel Cluizel - Grand Noir - 85%

Price: $11.60 for 100g

Comparative price: $11.60 per 100g

Origin: Blended

Rating: 3.5 out of 5 (revisited & revised rating: 4 out of 5 - see comments)

Buy again: Possibly but perhaps would go the 72% instead

NB price quoted is CocoaKiss price, David Jones price is $16.95.

Sight

Darker than I'm naturally inclined to, but my actual reason for buying the 85% was simply due to DJ's inconsistent stock levels. I really wanted to try Michel Cluizel and on the day they only had this or milk, and milk and I don't often get along too well. Although by the time I got around to reviewing this I had also snappled myself some 72% so you will see some inevitable comparisons. 

It looks the same as the 72% as far as marking however the colour is definitely darker - this is a flat, really dark coloured chocolate.  

Aroma

Strong, but not as good as the 72%.  It is a dull smell, if that makes any sense – not the rich full bodied aroma that I loved in it's slightly lighter cousin.  It doesn’t excite the senses, but it is good and certainly has a chocolate intensity to it.

Sound

As expected, it has similar characteristics as it’s counterpart and very good snap.

Taste

Immediately very intense and bitter but not unpleasantly so, although I would describe it as a dry taste.  This is something I haven't quite reconciled yet, that I find chocolate of a higher cocoa content often has a drier texture, it almost reminds me of powder a little bit – similar almost to cocoa powder.  I don’t know if this is some unusual rumblings on my behalf or a consequence of higher cocoa solids and less cocoa butter however the texture is thick and dry but certainly not unpleasant - it doesn't just give itself up to dissipate in your mouth.

So aside from the bitterness other flavours do start to stand out; a woody tone with hints of tobacco and nuts. This is earthy and certainly not a fruity chocolate although at times I do get flashes of melon.  It also fails to explode on your palette like the 72% but having said that comparison isn't fair and this is a very nice chocolate.  Strong flavoured, but the sharp flavour continues to present itself something I find difficult to describe – it is not a fruity sharpness, it reminds me (as a non wine drinker) of the sharpness you may get from wine.  As the flavour evolves so does the sharpness and it becomes quite tangy finally returning to its roots and finishing on the dry tobacco taste.  The flavour lingers quite nicely and is long on the palette.

Summary

It holds back on its flavour and consistently delivers, including the sharpness which is interesting.   Its almost like a conservative chocolate, it isn’t throwing itself or its flavours out there but it gets the job done well.   I like it however it certainly isn't as complex as the 72% but a very nice chocolate.  Likewise the texture is okay but not up to the standards of say Valrhona and other contemporaries.

Would I buy again?  Possibly, but for that price I would buy the 72% before this.  A very enjoyable good quality chocolate.

Rating 3.5 out of 5 (possibly inching a little up to a 4 particularly if you like things on the darker side).

Buy online at Cocoa Kiss now

Reviewer: Shari
24 August 2009

Comments

[Shari]

I've since revisited this chocolate and enjoy it more, with exposure (or maybe a change in my palate) the bitterness fades and the delicate flavours come through. No longer inching to 4 out of 5, probably there for me now and I am happy to buy, and more importantly consume!