Michel Cluizel - Individual Chocolates

Dark Chocolate Ganache / Milk Chocolate Praline

Price: $2.92 each (purchased as two for $5.85)

Comparative price: $29.25 per 100g

Rating: 4.5 / 4.0 out of 5

Buy again: Yes.  Both were delicious examples of classic chocolates.

This was a little experiment in the uninformed; I purchased this wee little box of two chocolates from The Essential Ingredient and whilst I could see them and guess as to what they were there wasn't actually anything to confirm this.  But then it really wasn't that much of an experiment as the name of Michel Cluizel is one that you can put at least a little faith in.

I should also note this is written with heightened expectation because aside from the well known French name, I do believe these are the most expensive chocolates I have purchased at $29.25 per 100g (or just a tad under $300 per kg to put it into perspective!)

Fortunately the chocolates are pretty straight forward as to what they are and my suspicions were confirmed with the presence of two classics; a dark chocolate ganache (also known as a palet d'or) and a milk chocolate praline.

Dark Chocolate Ganache

Sight

The box is pleasant - black with the Michel Cluizel brand - but nothing exciting.  However with this French pedigree (not typically available in Australia) does it need to be exciting?  

Sadly on opening, the chocolates sit within a little gold tray that feels a bit too mass market; but to be fair I guess this is what I am buying.  Maybe for this price I am used to buying an artisan chocolate that comes with appropriate and distinct packaging.  But I'm still excited!

There is a little slip of paper a top the chocolates and I excitedly peruse this looking for a description of what I am about to enjoy but it is only some detail as to the Michel Cluizel philosophy.  So at this point, aside from general chocolate knowledge, I’m none the wiser about what I am going to eat which is a little frustrating.

But it isn't all bad.  The chocolate is a traditional but attractive ganache; round and enrobed in a dark hued chocolate with a little dot of edible gold leaf.  Disappointingly there is little sheen on the chocolate and the surface looks battered - although this morsel has made its delicate way out from France so I can be forgiving.  And talking about being fair - the size of this chocolate is fair; the diameter is pretty standard, if not a little small however the depth is lusciously generous and excites my visual senses.

Smell

A decidedly rich, decadent and inviting aroma; this smells of pure chocolate!  And like Pavlov’s dogs it elicits the appropriate response and I start to salivate in anticipation – a great aroma! 

Taste & Texture

Firm all the way through the bite!  That is the first thing I notice, the chocolate offers just enough resistance but not too much and it gives way so beautifully that I cannot distinguish the coating against the ganache – a perfect marriage of texture.  Although I do detect a very slight graininess, but nothing I am concerned about.

The flavour is gentle, fruity yet forthright.  The ganache dissipates slowly but with purpose on my tongue imparting it’s delicate flavour – although that subtlety is soon challenged by luscious fruity tones that continue throughout the tasting.  The coating is very very thin which I like and don't oft see – I love that this is one complete, balanced chocolate, not a ganache with noticeable thick coating.

There are slight undertones of coffee (but not bitter) and whilst this appears at times it is fruity sharpness that sits at the back of my palette.  

It lingers very nicely at a good midpoint of flavour with a pretty good longevity.

Summary

A very good chocolate.  This is gentle but flavorsome and a true delight that I would rate as 4.5 out of 5 and would definitely buy again.  But one word of warning, make sure you have the time to lay back on the couch, close your eyes and indulge.  This isn't one I would recommend eating on the run.

Milk Chocolate Praline

Similar to the ganache in that it is a normal size in diameter but generous in height.  But on overall appearance of the two, the praline fares better; round and spiky with its nutty contents, it is glossy and inviting.

Aroma

A distinct sweet and nutty smell that fits its intention but no particular chocolate aroma.  Certainly no great punch of aroma like the dark cousin.

Taste & Texture

Like its ganache cousin, the texture of this chocolate works as one as I bite into it and I gently sink my teeth into it's nutty goodness.  And from that initial bite I get a very intense toasted nut flavour which is immediate and delicious.  It then moves on to the praline which seems to be delivering a strong sense of sweetness.  I am not that aware of the chocolate, this is so well integrated with the nut and praline flavours; not obvious but enhancing the experience.

This chocolate is very sweet and despite my dislike of nutty bits I don’t mind them in this instance as they are so yummy.  The texture is very good; a little like Goldilocks - not too smooth, not too soft, just right.

One thing I particularly like about this praline is that it isn't simply a nutty flavour but a toasted nut flavour which is much more intense and enjoyable.  And true to form it finishes on an almost a carmalised nut flavour which is lovely.

There is some concept of lingering flavour but the be honest the praline leaves quickly and it is the less desirable sweet flavour that remains for a little while.  Not to mention those pesky little pieces of nuts that manage to hang around in my mouth for some time (which a secret part of me kind of enjoys!)

Summary

Overall, very delicious.  Not something I would necessarily seek out, but when done well pralines are great and this one is done well.  The only things that really detracts is the sweetness on the end – it’s a bit much for my tastes and it just seems to grab some of the attention away from the more interesting nut/praline happenings.  Therefore I would give this 4 out of 5

So overall this was a good experiment.  They were very nice and worth the purchase although one thing that disappoints me a little is freshness.  It is not to suggest that these aren't fresh, but many of the better Melbourne chocolatier's that I buy from don't use preservatives in their products and therefore they must be consumed with a few weeks (and freshness is particularly pertinent when we are talking about cream based ganaches).  However with these there were no such 'problems' as they have a shelf life of several months. And of course they do, how else am I going to get French chocolates in Australia?  However it makes me feel the quality is ever so slightly compromised; whether this is a fair assessment is another thing.

Purchased from the Essential Ingredient, Prahran Market.

Reviewer: Shari
17 January 2010