E. Guittard - Ambanja Bittersweet - 65%

Price $3.35 USD for 56.7g 

Comparative price $5.98 USD per 100g

Origin Madagascar

Rating 3 out of 5

Buy again No. Too sweet for my tastes

It appears many Australian's seem to think the American's can't make chocolate - not unless they enjoy that confection masquerading as chocolate Hershey's (apologies to any offended American readers who may beg to differ on that institution that is Hershey). But in my defence, I am here to challenge this assumption and hopefully prove that Americans can produce good quality, European style chocolate.  And I'm starting with E.Guittard, the more upmarket component of the Guittard brand.

Purchased from www.chocosphere.com I have gone with good pedigree (Madagascan Criollo) and a mild cocoa content of 65%.  So let's put my American chocolate making challenge to the test...

Sight

Simple, classic packaging which is nice; a matt purple wrapper with a gold frame, you can't go wrong. And then of course there is the obligatory heritage (since 1868) discreetly yet proudly displayed. Likewise this brand discreetly pays homage to the Europeans by declaring vintage chocolate making in the French tradition, although this little block is a long way from home and hails from San Francisco.

Interestingly the packaging clearly displays that they are carefully crafted to showcase the unique flavour of the region but I have to hunt and hunt on the packaging until I find some tasting notes that allude to what those flavours may be, and even then all I get is tart essences with deep, rich chocolate flavour.  Hmm, perhaps a little more substance wouldn't go astray.

Anyway, on to the chocolate.  Happily I find these to be good size pieces - I love a substantial tasting. They are a mid-brown colour with just a hint of red.  Proudly displayed upon the pieces is the name of E. Guittard in curvy script writing.  I am happy to continue with these little morsels based on sight.

Snap

Things are looking up - this demonstrates the clear, solid snap of quality chocolate.

Smell

Ambanja elicits a rich chocolate smell but at the same time there is no particular profile to this other than a strong sense of sweetness, a little unexpected.

Taste & Texture

I pop my little piece of E. Guittard into my mouth and wait; it starts slowly, but then flavour tentatively comes forward with a welcome touch of toasted almonds -  gentle and pleasant on my palate.  However an onslought follows this and the tartness forewarned in the tasting notes hits, and it hits hard!

But then the unexpected happens.  The chocolate, in all its tart glory, tries valiantly to return but instead another flavour has taken over, an unexpected interloper is trying to pay penance for that tartness and balance it out - sweetness.  And dare I say it jars as I really feel this is too sweet.  I would personally prefer the tart flavours to be given the opportunity to evolve more naturally and stand by their strong, punchy flavours but I feel the makers have tried too hard to counteract out the strength of this chocolate.  

But on the positives, it lingers very very well.   The mingled tartness and chocolate flavour are ever present throughout and softer tones do get to make brief appearances in the after taste.  But I am too oft distracted by that damned sweetness that continues to present itself, almost to the point it is a little acrid at the back of my palate.  

Strangely texture hasn't come to mind yet so time to focus.  There is nothing bad here, it is smooth but there is nothing great.  It doesn't take on a luscious texture or way of distributing flavour like so many compatriots do.  It is a work horse in terms of texture; it gets in there, does what is required but isn't anything fancy.

Summary

So for me this is promising, a punchy chocolate with flashes of really good about it (particularly when the tartness mellows a little) but at the end of the day it is over sweet - so much so that it reminds me of cordial, a sharp, sweet lime coridal and it doesn't do itself, or its pedigree of a Madagascan criollo, any justice.

This is pretty good, not necessarily to my liking so I wouldn't buy again however I would buy E. Guittard again and am happy to know there is diversity and quality in American chocolate production.  I rate this 3 out of 5.

Purchased: www.chocosphere.com

Reviewer: Shari
17 April 2010